Day 2 – part b
… We were looking forward to getting into Czech itself and finding a small hotel on the road, or at worst in Pilzen, and having an evening meal. By now it was about 20:00pm continued …
The traffic that had stopped in front of us was obviously waiting for the border crossing somewhere up ahead. This was the first for us today as all the other borders have now come down, we didn’t have to stop at all1. We edged forward, on and off for about an hour and then stopped completely for another two hours. That was THREE HOURS in total before we saw the border post, which by now was the only light in the darkened night sky. At 20:00pm the prospect of getting a hotel was reasonable, even (we thought) in a relatively backward (tas it was then) country like the Czech Republic. But, as it approached midnight that prospect was bleak. When we got through the German side of the border, we drove for about half a mile towards the Czech side and then stopped just after their border post to get some money changed. We also had to buy a permit to drive on their roads – the whole place looked dingy, dismal and unwelcoming in the dark – and it was still wet and drizzly.
Nevertheless, the road was now clear on our side, but long lines of trucks bordered the oncoming lanes. We drove for about 3-4 miles before coming to a standstill once more – in the pitch-blackness of Czech woodlands. The problem was that because of the trucks taking up space at the other side of the road, the oncoming traffic couldn’t overtake (because of the stream of stream of traffic we
were in, heading IN to Czech). Eventually, the Frenchman in front of us took his torch and walking stick and sorted the whole thing out. We had been here about an hour. The lorries eventually petered out after about six more miles. But, even then, we still passed other long lines of wagons parked up and down the roadside – even as far as Pilzen.
The first shop we saw in Czech was a large roadside shack selling GARDEN GNOMES and cheap vodka. And, I mean lots of garishly coloured gnomes. Even those shops that were closed had gnomes outside; all chained up and placed in cages! There were lots of ‘Non-Stop’ cafes and bars, we even stopped at a couple to try for rooms, but there were none to be had. The frightening thing though, was that wherever we saw a ‘Non-Stop’ sign, we also saw ‘Sexy Girl’ or ‘Fun Palace’ signs as well. It seems that one of the major Czech industries is to sell sex, gnomes and cheap vodka to the Germans, who apparently (a guy in Prague told us this later) come over in their droves for one or more (in whatever combination?).
Petrol was now our major concern and we debated whether or not to go on until morning, when there was more chance of a petrol station being open (seeing one at all would be a change!). We were tired and very low on juice, perhaps enough to reach Pilzen if we could keep moving but experience showed that this might not be possible. Just as we thought that we might have to pull over and sleep in the car, we came across a petrol station with a couple of hotels alongside. I filled up the tank while Stephen and Ben checked out the hotels. They were both full but so at least, was the tank – so we said stuff it to Pilzen and headed straight through to Prague, where it was hoped we could get a hotel first thing in the morning, and sleep then.
Day 2 continues into day 3 in the next post.
1 – These were the early days of Schengen – https://www.acs-ami.com/en/travel-articles/schengen-agreement/ .
I do remember finding it funny that all the hotels on the border were staffed by attractive ladies and charged for rooms by the hour 🙂
The vodka & gnome shops were surreal, that one we did speak to was staffed by a wizened old “grasshopper” with a London accent.
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