Category: Food

Saint Tropez – Final days #8

Tuesday 20th July

We waited in for John Denton to arrive, from Quarry Garage.  I waited outside the camp site for two and a half hours, so I could let him in.  He arrived1 at 12:30pm.  He then checked the car over, drilling holes here and there as he went and then handed us a big handful of cable-ties.  These could now be used to secure the boot and the bonnet whilst travelling2.  Then we all had lunch.  John had brought his four-year-old son Lewis along with him.  Sue had found a turtle whilst I was away this morning and caught it on film.

By the time we reached the beach today it was very windy again, but we were able to set the brolly up as an igloo, so it had less chance of blowing away.  Despite the wind, the sea was very calm, although the surface was cold, with the wind.  It was easy to swim in today, much easier than any other day.  The wind eventually drove us home (via Ramatuelle, after yesterday’s traffic).  After tea we went for a drive and because of the traffic elsewhere, we tried Port Cogolin. Crap!

Wednesday 21st July

We had a straight forward sort of day today, arriving at the beach before 10:00am and leaving when it clouded over around 15:30pm. We then drove up to Ramatuelle for afternoon tea (well you know). We called at Le Cave Minute after this but didn’t get shown around or offered a taste.  We stopped then at Cave Bourrian and bought a red wine which turned out to be NOT very nice.  After tea, Ben did some videoing and we drove to Cavalaire, but couldn’t find anywhere to park.  http://vignoblesderamatuelle.com/.

Thursday 22nd July

We went to the Casino at 08:30am, hopefully for the last time this holiday.  We went for all of the things we need for the journey home tomorrow.  Filled up, checked oil and topped up and then we had breakfast in the café there before driving to the beach via Gassin and Ramatuelle.

Friday 23rd July – Departure

We were up at 07:00am and ready to leave by 08:45am. By 11:35am we were at Montelimar. We set off again at 12:25pm and stopped at a service station south of Mâcon but filled up at a service station just south of Beaune (15:50pm). Stopped again north of Dijon to phone Troyes.  We arrived in Troyes around 18:10pm but took another 30 minutes to find the Formula 1 hotel, which turned out to be miles and miles out of town.

So, we had driven all day.  08:45am to 18:30pm almost 10 hours – 512 miles.

A lot of time was taken up trying to find this place, but we’re here now. Right next door is a place called Fasthotel and they only charge 150ff.  Ours cost 130ff as it is a special offer, nationwide. The room is adequate. It had a clock, a telly and a sink (plus one double bed and a single bunk)3.  We went to the Fasthotel for dinner – they have two horseshoe shaped bars, which turn into dining tables at the suggestion of customers (??).  Two basic menus are offered. The service was good, quick and cheerful and the food was so-so – adequate at the price.

Saturday 24th July

I woke early and couldn’t get back to sleep, so I went for a walk.  We intend to go down for breakfast at 08:00am.  We were on our way by 08:40am.

We’re driving up the A26 now, from Troyes towards Chalon sur Marne4 and we’ve reached Sommesous (Sue must have been driving).  The fields at either side of the road are no longer the colourful patchwork of wheat, sunflowers, sweetcorn and beet but now JUST wheat (or Barley) as far as the eye can see, just like I imagine the prairies to look like.  Also, here and there, there are enormous silos, presumably for storing all this grain, which is being harvested as we pass.  Some fields have already been cut, but others are still ripening in the sun. Perhaps the grasses are barley, because as we pass the Epernay turn off, there’s a strong smell of malting.  We arrived in Calais at 12:40pm. The ferry was at 15:45pm

So, before boarding, we went to the Continent Hypermarket and bought 5 cases of beer and four bottles of wine5.  We also had a really crap lunch at the Flunch bar, re-packed the boot and drove back to the ship.  On board, I bought 1ltr Asbach and 1ltr Gin and a pack of lighters.

And, that’s it – I have no news of the journey through the UK or what happened upon our return with the car.  I do  know that Quarry Garage were brilliant and that they loaned us a car while they sorted the repairs and dealt with the insurance company.

Thank you for reading.

1 – He didn’t have to come at all, it was really kind of him to pop along and help us make the car safe. He’d been in England, at the garage when I called last week (after the crash), to seek advice on how to make the car safe to drive home. He was coming down to Stay with family on holiday in Saint Raphaël anyway and simply offered to pop along and help.

2 – It just meant that we had to take everything out of the boot each night on our way back, and leave the parcel shelf off, so it could be seen as empty.

3 – I don’t know what Formula 1s are like these days but back in the day they were VERY basic. The toilets and showers were communal and down the hallway. Mostly, I seem to remember that they were also automatic. Since those days (when we were financially disadvantaged), we have progressed up through Premiere Classe hotels and on to Campanile hotels, which offer more comfort and more than adequate dining. We’ve also stayed in traditional French hotels over the years but it seems the we did not on this holiday.

4 – Now Chalons en Champagne – ‘Formerly called Châlons-sur-Marne, the city was officially renamed in 1998.’

5 – Such things were very much cheaper in France at that time.

Books, Eating Out #6

Friday 16th July

This could be quite a long entry.

I am writing up Friday’s events on Saturday, the first time that this has happened this year. However, I am writing it on the beach as I have forgotten to bring a book to read.

I am halfway through MORT (Terry Pratchett) having finished EQUAL RITES earlier in the week.  ‘The Witching Hour’ by Anne Rice took some reading – all of last week and all of the journey down. Sue is now reading it and finding it riveting. I found two thirds of it interesting enough but the last 200-300 pages were boring and hard work.

Anyway, on Friday we called at Port Cogolin Market on our way out.  This was quite small but also very cheap.  We bought Sarah Triggs a bum bag here.  We then spent a long day on the beach. Sue is now using Factor 4 (F4) all over.  I used F2 oil all over, although on reflection, I should have used F4.  The F2 had to be reapplied quite often and anyway, it was making my tan redder than it usually is1.

We didn’t make tea yesterday – we went out.  We first tried the restaurant just up the road, but they didn’t take Visa2.  So, we drove up to Grimaud.  However, having walked around for the best part of an hour, we couldn’t find one that we liked or which would take Visa.  We did find one that would have been really nice; it overlooked the valley, had tremendous views and the menu was very tempting but when we asked about Visa the answer, was “non!”.  This is quite a depressing feature of this part of France.  For diners it’s either cash or nothing – in many places. We have tried various eating establishments without success and the most disappointing is the Camp Restaurant.  We would eat there more regularly if they took Visa, but … they don’t.

The trouble we have had with the car this week has tightened our cash supply somewhat and as credit card cash withdrawals are punitive, we needed a Visa-taking restaurant. We ended up driving back to Port Grimaud and after walking around for a while, we found a restaurant that DID take Visa.

We ate from the A ‘La Carte menu.  Sue had a whole Galia Melon with Parma Ham to start and I had Salade Lacustre, which really was awful. The concept was good and well-presented but all of the shellfish, inc. octopus and calamari were pickled!  We both chose spaghetti for main course, Sue had hers with Morelles and I had Carbonara, which was served ON the cream, with SMOKED bacon lardons, AND the egg yolk (which I would have mixed through the pasta, along with the cream) was sat on top – in half a shell. To be fair, it didn’t look appealing, but when it was all mixed together, it tasted wonderful. The service was slow but friendly but, as the bill took 20 minutes to arrive it was settled without tip.

Why we had spaghetti, I really don’t know.  We had dismissed such a choice up in Grimaud, but I really didn’t fancy any of the beef or veal being offered (only steaks) and the various fish dishes were unappetising. I really should have had the melon starter and a different salad (they were huge) as my main course.  Still, we learn as we go along don’t we?  Sue drove home.

1 – After reading and typing up this week’s notes from 1993, I hadn’t realised that I was such a beach-bum.

2 – “Prenez-vous la carte”? was such a mantra in those days. Looking back, it seems ridiculous, especially as France was the first place I ever encountered one of those portable card machines we see everywhere now – the ones they bring to your table. At the time and for a long time afterwards waiters used to disappear with your card and eventually return with a bill and a pen for you to sign with.

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