Category: Saint Tropez

Saint Tropez – Final days #8

Tuesday 20th July

We waited in for John Denton to arrive, from Quarry Garage.  I waited outside the camp site for two and a half hours, so I could let him in.  He arrived1 at 12:30pm.  He then checked the car over, drilling holes here and there as he went and then handed us a big handful of cable-ties.  These could now be used to secure the boot and the bonnet whilst travelling2.  Then we all had lunch.  John had brought his four-year-old son Lewis along with him.  Sue had found a turtle whilst I was away this morning and caught it on film.

By the time we reached the beach today it was very windy again, but we were able to set the brolly up as an igloo, so it had less chance of blowing away.  Despite the wind, the sea was very calm, although the surface was cold, with the wind.  It was easy to swim in today, much easier than any other day.  The wind eventually drove us home (via Ramatuelle, after yesterday’s traffic).  After tea we went for a drive and because of the traffic elsewhere, we tried Port Cogolin. Crap!

Wednesday 21st July

We had a straight forward sort of day today, arriving at the beach before 10:00am and leaving when it clouded over around 15:30pm. We then drove up to Ramatuelle for afternoon tea (well you know). We called at Le Cave Minute after this but didn’t get shown around or offered a taste.  We stopped then at Cave Bourrian and bought a red wine which turned out to be NOT very nice.  After tea, Ben did some videoing and we drove to Cavalaire, but couldn’t find anywhere to park.  http://vignoblesderamatuelle.com/.

Thursday 22nd July

We went to the Casino at 08:30am, hopefully for the last time this holiday.  We went for all of the things we need for the journey home tomorrow.  Filled up, checked oil and topped up and then we had breakfast in the café there before driving to the beach via Gassin and Ramatuelle.

Friday 23rd July – Departure

We were up at 07:00am and ready to leave by 08:45am. By 11:35am we were at Montelimar. We set off again at 12:25pm and stopped at a service station south of Mâcon but filled up at a service station just south of Beaune (15:50pm). Stopped again north of Dijon to phone Troyes.  We arrived in Troyes around 18:10pm but took another 30 minutes to find the Formula 1 hotel, which turned out to be miles and miles out of town.

So, we had driven all day.  08:45am to 18:30pm almost 10 hours – 512 miles.

A lot of time was taken up trying to find this place, but we’re here now. Right next door is a place called Fasthotel and they only charge 150ff.  Ours cost 130ff as it is a special offer, nationwide. The room is adequate. It had a clock, a telly and a sink (plus one double bed and a single bunk)3.  We went to the Fasthotel for dinner – they have two horseshoe shaped bars, which turn into dining tables at the suggestion of customers (??).  Two basic menus are offered. The service was good, quick and cheerful and the food was so-so – adequate at the price.

Saturday 24th July

I woke early and couldn’t get back to sleep, so I went for a walk.  We intend to go down for breakfast at 08:00am.  We were on our way by 08:40am.

We’re driving up the A26 now, from Troyes towards Chalon sur Marne4 and we’ve reached Sommesous (Sue must have been driving).  The fields at either side of the road are no longer the colourful patchwork of wheat, sunflowers, sweetcorn and beet but now JUST wheat (or Barley) as far as the eye can see, just like I imagine the prairies to look like.  Also, here and there, there are enormous silos, presumably for storing all this grain, which is being harvested as we pass.  Some fields have already been cut, but others are still ripening in the sun. Perhaps the grasses are barley, because as we pass the Epernay turn off, there’s a strong smell of malting.  We arrived in Calais at 12:40pm. The ferry was at 15:45pm

So, before boarding, we went to the Continent Hypermarket and bought 5 cases of beer and four bottles of wine5.  We also had a really crap lunch at the Flunch bar, re-packed the boot and drove back to the ship.  On board, I bought 1ltr Asbach and 1ltr Gin and a pack of lighters.

And, that’s it – I have no news of the journey through the UK or what happened upon our return with the car.  I do  know that Quarry Garage were brilliant and that they loaned us a car while they sorted the repairs and dealt with the insurance company.

Thank you for reading.

1 – He didn’t have to come at all, it was really kind of him to pop along and help us make the car safe. He’d been in England, at the garage when I called last week (after the crash), to seek advice on how to make the car safe to drive home. He was coming down to Stay with family on holiday in Saint Raphaël anyway and simply offered to pop along and help.

2 – It just meant that we had to take everything out of the boot each night on our way back, and leave the parcel shelf off, so it could be seen as empty.

3 – I don’t know what Formula 1s are like these days but back in the day they were VERY basic. The toilets and showers were communal and down the hallway. Mostly, I seem to remember that they were also automatic. Since those days (when we were financially disadvantaged), we have progressed up through Premiere Classe hotels and on to Campanile hotels, which offer more comfort and more than adequate dining. We’ve also stayed in traditional French hotels over the years but it seems the we did not on this holiday.

4 – Now Chalons en Champagne – ‘Formerly called Châlons-sur-Marne, the city was officially renamed in 1998.’

5 – Such things were very much cheaper in France at that time.

2nd Weekend – Tornados #7

Saturday 17th July

I still need to write and send a card to Gordon and Pam at Home Farm1.  Today, we went to E.Leclerc at Cogolin for food, which will hopefully last us through until Tuesday, so we don’t have to fight through the throngs at the Casino on Monday. I also needed to buy various tools etc. to mend the broken bed (I really do not remember that).  A hand drill @ approx. £4.00 was needed and bits, also about £4.00 (these turned out to be too small for the drill). I bought brackets and screws but will leave these now for Stephen.  The bed had been bodged before, but is now more secure than it had been. We will just have to be more careful with it.

We had brunch at the caravan before setting out for our daily visit to the beach. As I have forgotten my book (see yesterday’s entry) I am writing this and reading all the documents and leaflets in my hand bag (??), just for something to do. I have also been thinking about the various schemes I need to plan for next year2 and perhaps I can make notes now.  I managed to work out a calendar before it was time to leave at 17:00pm.

Took Emma to see a beach (lol – I guess that she had refused to leave the camp site with us before now), had tea. Sue felt a bit cold, but it’s still mild and light at 21:00pm.

Sunday 18th July

We stayed by the caravan until 13:00pm today as Sue wasn’t feeling too well.  I sunbathed outside, it was very hot. I write a letter to Cameron in and amongst.  We went to the beach later and it was hot, hot, hot. I finished reading MORT and began to read SOURCERY.  After tea, we drove out to look for a Sunday paper, without success3.  Bought petrol in Saint Tropez.

Monday 19th July

We went to St. Maxime today and parked in the port car park. The town is quite nice and we spent a couple of hours walking around.  We had a drink in a bar on the ‘front’ and read the morning papers (yesterday’s Sunday morning papers). We stayed in St. Maxime for lunch as it had clouded over and had begun to rain.  My main course was a ‘house special’ salad and consisted of mixed leaves with dressing, bacon, fennel and small, deep-fried ravioli. We then drove straight to the beach in La  Blanche4.  The sun was hot but still very much overcast.  When it rained, we simply put the towels away and sat it out.  It took us 50 minutes to get back from the beach because of traffic.

John Denton from Quarry Garage5 had been while we were out.  He left a note to say he would be back tomorrow.

We went back out to the Casino Hypermarket (we never learn, it’s Monday again and busy, busy, busy, even after 18:00pm) and came home with a hot chicken.  Some chips from on-site and there we are – tea.

Today, we saw two tornados.  I was out at sea, swimming out by the buoys, when I saw a column of sand blowing onto the beach from the car park.  The sand was blowing up in the air along a path about three metres wide.  As it hit umbrellas, bags and rubbish, it blew them up in the air as well. It looked as if an invisible, petulant child of a giant was throwing a tantrum as it walked down towards the sea.  When it did reach the sea, it turned sharp left and marched on down the beach past Neptune and Liberty café/beaches, throwing mats and umbrellas in the air as it passed.  A little later, we had both been in the sea when something similar happened. This time, we were able to sit, along with everyone else unaffected, and watch the spectacle from the beach.  One brolly was thrown at least 20 metres in the air and was kept aloft while the wind marched quickly down the beach.  Again, as it hit the sea, it turned away from us, but the brolly blew back towards us and landed point down, right by the couple sat alongside us.

Frightening.

1 – We had a caravan at that time, which stayed on a farm near York. http://homefarmyork.co.uk/

2 – At the time, I was employed part-time by Dewsbury College as a chef-lecturer. Each year, schemes needed updating/changing and whilst this was often done by full-time members of staff, we were quite a small department, so I pitched in.

3 – In those days, it seemed to take an age for the English papers to reach the Riviera. Nowadays, in Spain anyway, they seem to appear as quickly as the English editions. But also, nowadays I never want to buy one – all the news I need is on t’internet.

4 – I’m struggling to find exactly where this beach was today. The nearest place I can find with a similar name is Plage de la Bastide Blanche.

5 – Quarry Garage is where we had just recently bought the car from.

Books, Eating Out #6

Friday 16th July

This could be quite a long entry.

I am writing up Friday’s events on Saturday, the first time that this has happened this year. However, I am writing it on the beach as I have forgotten to bring a book to read.

I am halfway through MORT (Terry Pratchett) having finished EQUAL RITES earlier in the week.  ‘The Witching Hour’ by Anne Rice took some reading – all of last week and all of the journey down. Sue is now reading it and finding it riveting. I found two thirds of it interesting enough but the last 200-300 pages were boring and hard work.

Anyway, on Friday we called at Port Cogolin Market on our way out.  This was quite small but also very cheap.  We bought Sarah Triggs a bum bag here.  We then spent a long day on the beach. Sue is now using Factor 4 (F4) all over.  I used F2 oil all over, although on reflection, I should have used F4.  The F2 had to be reapplied quite often and anyway, it was making my tan redder than it usually is1.

We didn’t make tea yesterday – we went out.  We first tried the restaurant just up the road, but they didn’t take Visa2.  So, we drove up to Grimaud.  However, having walked around for the best part of an hour, we couldn’t find one that we liked or which would take Visa.  We did find one that would have been really nice; it overlooked the valley, had tremendous views and the menu was very tempting but when we asked about Visa the answer, was “non!”.  This is quite a depressing feature of this part of France.  For diners it’s either cash or nothing – in many places. We have tried various eating establishments without success and the most disappointing is the Camp Restaurant.  We would eat there more regularly if they took Visa, but … they don’t.

The trouble we have had with the car this week has tightened our cash supply somewhat and as credit card cash withdrawals are punitive, we needed a Visa-taking restaurant. We ended up driving back to Port Grimaud and after walking around for a while, we found a restaurant that DID take Visa.

We ate from the A ‘La Carte menu.  Sue had a whole Galia Melon with Parma Ham to start and I had Salade Lacustre, which really was awful. The concept was good and well-presented but all of the shellfish, inc. octopus and calamari were pickled!  We both chose spaghetti for main course, Sue had hers with Morelles and I had Carbonara, which was served ON the cream, with SMOKED bacon lardons, AND the egg yolk (which I would have mixed through the pasta, along with the cream) was sat on top – in half a shell. To be fair, it didn’t look appealing, but when it was all mixed together, it tasted wonderful. The service was slow but friendly but, as the bill took 20 minutes to arrive it was settled without tip.

Why we had spaghetti, I really don’t know.  We had dismissed such a choice up in Grimaud, but I really didn’t fancy any of the beef or veal being offered (only steaks) and the various fish dishes were unappetising. I really should have had the melon starter and a different salad (they were huge) as my main course.  Still, we learn as we go along don’t we?  Sue drove home.

1 – After reading and typing up this week’s notes from 1993, I hadn’t realised that I was such a beach-bum.

2 – “Prenez-vous la carte”? was such a mantra in those days. Looking back, it seems ridiculous, especially as France was the first place I ever encountered one of those portable card machines we see everywhere now – the ones they bring to your table. At the time and for a long time afterwards waiters used to disappear with your card and eventually return with a bill and a pen for you to sign with.

Saint Tropez – Cloudy Sky #5

Tuesday 13th July

Our first concern today was to go an cash some traveller’s cheques1, as yesterday’s events had cost us over £120.  We then went up to La Croix Valmer, where we spent about an hour.  Phoned Quarry Garage2, and others at home before going to the beach, where we stayed until 16:00pm.  Had showers, made tea and then looked in on the crappy circus at the camp-site entrance.

Wednesday 14th July (Bastille Day)

We went to the Casino first thing and spent £60 on almost nothing.  However, we now have almost the same stock of soft drinks and beers that they have (at the supermarket).  Ours is under the caravan and in the fridge. I don’t think that we need to buy any more before we leave.  We then went to the beach, where the weather was pleasant and the sea a bit warmer than recent days.  Sue is now down to factor 8 on her gentler bits and factor 5 on the rest. Today I used factor 4 first and then factor 2 on the second application and neither of us ended up being sore3.

We left the beach just after 15:00pm as it began to get cold.  A large cloud was moving slowly across the sun that made all the difference.  By the time the washing was done and we had had our showers, the cloud had passed and the evening was quite pleasant. After tea, Sue and I had a game of boules before going out for a drive. We filmed people bungie jumping at the Luna Park and then tried to get into Saint Tropez, but it was simply too busy – we therefore looked at Grimaud and Cogolin instead, but didn’t stop.

We opened a second bottle of gin tonight. The stuff here is much cheaper than at home but still only 37.5%.  I bought a bottle of Ballentines whisky for less than £10.  Famous Grouse is about the same price as at home.

 Thursday 15th July

We were off and out by 10:00am again this morning but didn’t fancy either of the closer markets, so we went back into Saint Tropez.  Parking was easy enough, but there didn’t seem to be any ‘life’ here.  We got to the beach around 11:30am and later, having just finished lunch, an enormous cloud passed over and blocked out the sun. Now, this happened yesterday too, but today we couldn’t see an end to it.  It had been so hot in the sun that it was quite cold now that it was hidden by the cloud.

We therefore decided to drive on round to Le Lavendou. This took quite some time as we had to go the slow route to La Croix Valmer first. However, the sun did come out again as we were passing a place called Le Rayol – so we decide to stop here.  There was a winding road that led to a sort of cliff top and we were able to park just at the top of some steps. The sun belted down on this sheltered bay and the sea was calmer, so it was quite pleasant.

Home for tea and a game of rummy.  We’ve a week left here now and the weather still hasn’t come up to last year’s super heat – but of course it may well do so yet.

1 – Remember traveller’s cheques? That’s one thing the Euro € helped us to do without, when travelling in Europe. It’s also much easier these days to pay bigger bills (supermarket, petrol etc.) by ‘card’ and to simply keep the €€s from one trip to the next.

2 – Quarry Garage is where we had just bought the car from.

3 – I used to come home from these holidays as brown as you like, but wouldn’t dare use less than factor 15 these days. That’s due to a combination of cancer awareness and less time in the sun.

 

Saint Tropez – 1st weekend #4

Saturday 10th July

We were at a garage suggested by someone yesterday, Garage Ford on the Z.I. St. Claude, by 09:00am.  It was closed.  It didn’t look like a main Ford dealer either.  So, we then tried phoning GESA who deal with Green (insurance) Card problems.  Their system is such that they put you on hold as soon as you are connected and then allow the ringing tone to continue.  This eats up the French coinage, of which we have a limited amount.  We then asked at reception if we could have their number – but they told us that they wouldn’t take incoming calls. We tried the site next door, but their phone was out of order1, so we drove up to La Croix Valmer and found a ‘card’ phone in La Poste.  So we dealt with the problem of reporting the accident here.  We had called at the Casino for shopping between looking for the garage and coming back to site, so we drove back and had lunch.

During the afternoon, it rained quite heavily, so we read and slept all afternoon.  Sue and I are now complaining about sore necks.  I filled in the claim forms and wrote more postcards2 ready for Sue to post when she went to phone her dad.

Sunday 11th July

We set off early to go to the beach. It was very windy this morning, but sunny and dry. The beach was quiet but hellishly windy.  We stayed until 15:00pm, came back and had a quiet read, tea, boules, Cluedo, read and bed.

Monday 12th July

Today’s big job, after the weekend, was to get the car seen to3.  We went along to the Garage Savall (Ford) in Cogolin. As was our experience in France previously, we were dealt with kindly and with care.  The boss here said it would be impossible for him to repair the boot as the job would need specialist work and would possibly be too expensive for us here in France. What’s more it would take too long.  Nevertheless, they agreed to secure the boot and bonnet, and to replace the front n/s light, for approx. 1,000 francs (around £117). We agreed to this, and to return at 17:00pm when he had the parts.  We then had lunch with Ben and Emma at the caravan.

We phoned both sets of European Insurance assistants and I phoned Stephen and his guests (staff barbecue)4.  I spoke to Diane, who read out the ‘postcard from France’.  We then went to the beach. It would have been a lovely day for a walk.  The sun was hot, but it was also as windy as yesterday – and the sea was VERY cold.

We went and had the car sorted at 17:00pm and had a walk around Cogolin while we waited. Came home for tea, read, played Boggle with Ben and read.

1 – We often forget how different life was before mobile phones and almost universal connectivity.

2 – Remember postcards? We used to send them to parents, friends and family – as a matter of course.

3 – The boot had been properly stove in (at this point I cannot remember whether we could open it or not) and the bonnet was a big dodgy because the front end had been bent – not enough to break the radiator, but enough to buckle the bonnet.

4 – I was employed part-time at this point and although I was kept busy during most of term times, at this point I was able to depart on holiday almost any time after the last week in June. My Dewsbury College, catering department colleagues were having a BBQ at Stephen’s home in Mirfield.

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