Prague at last – Bohemia #3

Day 3 – (Day 2 part c)

… and so, we said stuff it to Pilzen and headed straight through to Prague, where it was hoped we could get a hotel first thing in the morning, and sleep then …

By the time we arrived in Prague, it was about 03:30am/04:00am and we were done in. Stephen had been driving this leg and I took over as we reached the city centre. I was driving around Prague, that Wednesday morning, with no other traffic visible, no trouble with pedestrians launching themselves into the road and none of the very bust trams attacking me at any time. I drove around and around, getting a feel for the place but finding no hotels.  We decided to drive back up the way we came in as we had seen a lot of roadside hotel booking agents back there.  We thought we could sleep in one of their car parks and wait there until they opened in the morning.

But I got lost. I couldn’t find the road we had come in on.

We were eventually given a police escort back to the Pilzen road, after being stopped from trying to drive along some tram lines, which I hadn’t realised were for trams only.  They had mostly been shared with general traffic. Whoops. The police men in the police car had obviously seen me looking either lost, stupid or drunk and decided to pull me over.  Ben, our most fluent German speaker and I went to meet the policemen, we even tried French, but they only spoke Czech. We managed to convey the fact that we were lost and were trying to find the Pilzen road.  I think that he tried to tell us, but saw only blank looks – so he motioned us to follow him in the car.  Which we did. On the way, we passed a beautiful church, which we never found again, despite trying.

We tried a hotel up the road, that looked expensive and wondered if maybe this too would be closed up for the night. But we looked through the window and saw a receptionist playing pool.  We attracted his attention and found us a room for three people at what turned out to be a very reasonable £62.00 for three nights. Bargain. It was basic, but reasonably comfortable and anyway, who at that time of night (it was already light by now) could be choosy? The room had three bench-type beds with reasonably comfortable mattresses and ‘too warm’ quilts.  It was en-suite and breakfast was included. We missed the first day’s breakfast but the next two day’s fayre was interesting (which I will come to in the next post – the real day 3).

Through the night – Bohemia #2

Day 2 – part b

… We were looking forward to getting into Czech itself and finding a small hotel on the road, or at worst in Pilzen, and having an evening meal. By now it was about 20:00pm continued

The traffic that had stopped in front of us was obviously waiting for the border crossing somewhere up ahead.  This was the first for us today as all the other borders have now come down, we didn’t have to stop at all1.  We edged forward, on and off for about an hour and then stopped completely for another two hours. That was THREE HOURS in total before we saw the border post, which by now was the only light in the darkened night sky.  At 20:00pm the prospect of getting a hotel was reasonable, even (we thought) in a relatively backward (tas it was then) country like the Czech Republic.  But, as it approached midnight that prospect was bleak.  When we got through the German side of the border, we drove for about half a mile towards the Czech side and then stopped just after their border post to get some money changed.  We also had to buy a permit to drive on their roads – the whole place looked dingy, dismal and unwelcoming in the dark – and it was still wet and drizzly.

Nevertheless, the road was now clear on our side, but long lines of trucks bordered the oncoming lanes.  We drove for about 3-4 miles before coming to a standstill once more – in the pitch-blackness of Czech woodlands.  The problem was that because of the trucks taking up space at the other side of the road, the oncoming traffic couldn’t overtake (because of the stream of stream of traffic we Screenshot 2019-06-21 at 16.02.55were in, heading IN to Czech).  Eventually, the Frenchman in front of us took his torch and walking stick and sorted the whole thing out.  We had been here about an hour.  The lorries eventually petered out after about six more miles.  But, even then, we still passed other long lines of wagons parked up and down the roadside – even as far as Pilzen.

The first shop we saw in Czech was a large roadside shack selling GARDEN GNOMES and cheap vodka. And, I mean lots of garishly coloured gnomes.  Even those shops that were closed had gnomes outside; all chained up and placed in cages!  There were lots of ‘Non-Stop’ cafes and bars, we even stopped at a couple to try for rooms, but there were none to be had. The frightening thing though, was that wherever we saw a ‘Non-Stop’ sign, we also saw ‘Sexy Girl’ or ‘Fun Palace’ signs as well.  It seems that one of the major Czech industries is to sell sex, gnomes and cheap vodka to the Germans, who apparently (a guy in Prague told us this later) come over in their droves for one or more (in whatever combination?).

Petrol was now our major concern and we debated whether or not to go on until morning, when there was more chance of a petrol station being open (seeing one at all would be a change!).  We were tired and very low on juice, perhaps enough to reach Pilzen if we could keep moving but experience showed that this might not be possible. Just as we thought that we might have to pull over and sleep in the car, we came across a petrol station with a couple of hotels alongside.  I filled up the tank while Stephen and Ben checked out the hotels. They were both full but so at least, was the tank – so we said stuff it to Pilzen and headed straight through to Prague, where it was hoped we could get a hotel first thing in the morning, and sleep then.

Day 2 continues into day 3 in the next post.

1 – These were the early days of Schengen – https://www.acs-ami.com/en/travel-articles/schengen-agreement/ .

Czech with Mates – Bohemia #1

Day 1

We set off from Mirfield in indifferent weather, about 15:30pm on Monday 17th July.  Despite taking the scenic route through Flockton, we made good time towards the M25, despite being held up by a large load on the M1.  We were then held up on the M25 by slow-moving commuter traffic, about 19:30pm. This mean that our arrival in Folkestone was a little delayed but we were still very much on time to catch the 23:00pm1 Shuttle. As it happens, we were able to board one earlier at 22:00pm and had a smooth run through to France.  Even so, by this time, we were knackered and decided to get booked into a Formula 1 for the night.  The one in Calais was booked up, the next one, in Dunkirk took some finding and when we got there, that too was booked up. However, we were advised that there were spaces in the second Dunkirk hotel, in Saint Pol sur Mer, just up the road. We drove around the deserted streets for almost an hour trying to find this bugger and when we did, found it to be beside one of the major routes north to Belgium – not the one we had taken2.

Day 2 – part a

After the night here in Dunkirk, we set off for the Czech Republic.

We drove up through the rest of France and then through boring Belgium, through the small finger of Holland that juts between Germany and Belgium, and then into Germany.  Lunch was by a service station in the finger of Holland.  Lunch didn’t include a boiled egg as they had been overcooked by Stephen. He just laughed.  We passed under the giant Dortmund-Essen conurbation, and passing Cologne Cathedral on our left. We carried on down past Frankfurt and underneath the planes that were constantly landing there (we got some good shots of undercarriage through the sun roof).  We drove through Nuremberg and on towards the border at Weiden. The countryside here is beautiful and despite the rain, we have had excellent views since Nuremberg.  Wooded mountains faced us as we drove up and in the direction of Czech and the rain was drying up.  We were looking forward to getting into Czech itself and finding a small hotel on the road, or at worst in Pilsen, and having an evening meal. By now it was about 20:00pm.

That didn’t happen.  See next post (Day 2 – part b)

1 – Given that ‘Day 1’ included a trip through the channel tunnel, which only opened to the public in December 1994, I guess that ‘our’ trip may well have been 1995. It certainly wasn’t later than this. I do remember having been through the tunnel before ‘our’ trip.

2 – This entire journey turned out to be an example of what we miss when we have SatNavs – which were unthought of back in 1995!

Saint Tropez – Final days #8

Tuesday 20th July

We waited in for John Denton to arrive, from Quarry Garage.  I waited outside the camp site for two and a half hours, so I could let him in.  He arrived1 at 12:30pm.  He then checked the car over, drilling holes here and there as he went and then handed us a big handful of cable-ties.  These could now be used to secure the boot and the bonnet whilst travelling2.  Then we all had lunch.  John had brought his four-year-old son Lewis along with him.  Sue had found a turtle whilst I was away this morning and caught it on film.

By the time we reached the beach today it was very windy again, but we were able to set the brolly up as an igloo, so it had less chance of blowing away.  Despite the wind, the sea was very calm, although the surface was cold, with the wind.  It was easy to swim in today, much easier than any other day.  The wind eventually drove us home (via Ramatuelle, after yesterday’s traffic).  After tea we went for a drive and because of the traffic elsewhere, we tried Port Cogolin. Crap!

Wednesday 21st July

We had a straight forward sort of day today, arriving at the beach before 10:00am and leaving when it clouded over around 15:30pm. We then drove up to Ramatuelle for afternoon tea (well you know). We called at Le Cave Minute after this but didn’t get shown around or offered a taste.  We stopped then at Cave Bourrian and bought a red wine which turned out to be NOT very nice.  After tea, Ben did some videoing and we drove to Cavalaire, but couldn’t find anywhere to park.  http://vignoblesderamatuelle.com/.

Thursday 22nd July

We went to the Casino at 08:30am, hopefully for the last time this holiday.  We went for all of the things we need for the journey home tomorrow.  Filled up, checked oil and topped up and then we had breakfast in the café there before driving to the beach via Gassin and Ramatuelle.

Friday 23rd July – Departure

We were up at 07:00am and ready to leave by 08:45am. By 11:35am we were at Montelimar. We set off again at 12:25pm and stopped at a service station south of Mâcon but filled up at a service station just south of Beaune (15:50pm). Stopped again north of Dijon to phone Troyes.  We arrived in Troyes around 18:10pm but took another 30 minutes to find the Formula 1 hotel, which turned out to be miles and miles out of town.

So, we had driven all day.  08:45am to 18:30pm almost 10 hours – 512 miles.

A lot of time was taken up trying to find this place, but we’re here now. Right next door is a place called Fasthotel and they only charge 150ff.  Ours cost 130ff as it is a special offer, nationwide. The room is adequate. It had a clock, a telly and a sink (plus one double bed and a single bunk)3.  We went to the Fasthotel for dinner – they have two horseshoe shaped bars, which turn into dining tables at the suggestion of customers (??).  Two basic menus are offered. The service was good, quick and cheerful and the food was so-so – adequate at the price.

Saturday 24th July

I woke early and couldn’t get back to sleep, so I went for a walk.  We intend to go down for breakfast at 08:00am.  We were on our way by 08:40am.

We’re driving up the A26 now, from Troyes towards Chalon sur Marne4 and we’ve reached Sommesous (Sue must have been driving).  The fields at either side of the road are no longer the colourful patchwork of wheat, sunflowers, sweetcorn and beet but now JUST wheat (or Barley) as far as the eye can see, just like I imagine the prairies to look like.  Also, here and there, there are enormous silos, presumably for storing all this grain, which is being harvested as we pass.  Some fields have already been cut, but others are still ripening in the sun. Perhaps the grasses are barley, because as we pass the Epernay turn off, there’s a strong smell of malting.  We arrived in Calais at 12:40pm. The ferry was at 15:45pm

So, before boarding, we went to the Continent Hypermarket and bought 5 cases of beer and four bottles of wine5.  We also had a really crap lunch at the Flunch bar, re-packed the boot and drove back to the ship.  On board, I bought 1ltr Asbach and 1ltr Gin and a pack of lighters.

And, that’s it – I have no news of the journey through the UK or what happened upon our return with the car.  I do  know that Quarry Garage were brilliant and that they loaned us a car while they sorted the repairs and dealt with the insurance company.

Thank you for reading.

1 – He didn’t have to come at all, it was really kind of him to pop along and help us make the car safe. He’d been in England, at the garage when I called last week (after the crash), to seek advice on how to make the car safe to drive home. He was coming down to Stay with family on holiday in Saint Raphaël anyway and simply offered to pop along and help.

2 – It just meant that we had to take everything out of the boot each night on our way back, and leave the parcel shelf off, so it could be seen as empty.

3 – I don’t know what Formula 1s are like these days but back in the day they were VERY basic. The toilets and showers were communal and down the hallway. Mostly, I seem to remember that they were also automatic. Since those days (when we were financially disadvantaged), we have progressed up through Premiere Classe hotels and on to Campanile hotels, which offer more comfort and more than adequate dining. We’ve also stayed in traditional French hotels over the years but it seems the we did not on this holiday.

4 – Now Chalons en Champagne – ‘Formerly called Châlons-sur-Marne, the city was officially renamed in 1998.’

5 – Such things were very much cheaper in France at that time.

Holiday in France. #1 Saint Tropez.

1993 – Getting there

July 3rd – July 5th

Set off at 10:50am and had to return to make sure door was locked and to collect pillows. Stopped in Sheffield to take my jumper off and eventually made Jacks Hill Café 1 at 13:35pm (137 miles later). Here we had our rather late lunch and then went on to Martin’s, where we stayed until 15:30pm. I lent Martin my Tribes copy of Lemmings 2 and installed T. Type Fonts for Windows. We arrived in Portsmouth about 18:00pm and spent a little time looking around the shops as they closed. We found a pub that sold sandwiches and settled there to have tea and to write the diary. I can’t remember the mileage, but it is a lot less than 300.  Zeroed at petrol station.

The ship set off on time and it wasn’t very full. The 2-berth cabin seems quite comfortable and we were able to get a transfer for Ben and Emma (from reclining seats), to a similar cabin to ours. Sue bought some eau de cologne and I bought a sweatshirt. We also bought 2 litres of gin because of the strange customs rules.  We then heard over the tannoy, that we would arrive in France at 07:00am UK time. This s contrary to expectations. The brochure stated that the crossing would be 7.5 hours (21:15pm – 04:45am). However, I was told that the crossing is a ‘summer extra’ and as it seems to be an old ship, takes longer. The 23:00pm sailing arrives at 06:00am, which seems a little strange. The saving grace is that we can have a longer sleep and longer in the bar.

1993 – July 4th

We left the ship about 08:10am (French time) and did about 60 miles in the first hour and another 70 by the second hour. Stopped for breakfast at Fontainebleau (156 miles), a Bison Futé stop. Set off again at 11:05am.  Stopped at Beaune. Set off again 14:05pm (325 miles).  For the last hour or so, Sue has been driving. We are just south of Chalon-sur-Saône and heading towards Lyon. We reached the Lyon peage at 15:10pm and changed drivers. Then, we changed again just south of Valence, about 480 miles. We were passing Cavaillon and Sue was till driving. The weather is absolutely spanking but very uncomfortable to drive in.3  The highest temperature we’ve seen so far on the motorway is 33oC.

Swapped again at Lançon and set off for the last few miles at 18:40pm.  Arrived at 20:25pm. The security man let us in. 4  We settled into the mobile home 5 as quickly as we could and went to Fat Jaques’ for a pizza tea. Slept v. well.

Monday 5th July

Got up and had a short breakfast, then Sue and I went to the hypermarket. This was a bad mistake. It was very full and very busy. We still need some vegetables and bit and bats.  We came back and Sue had lunch while I re-built the tent (for Ben to sleep in) and fixed things up. The tent is ok now, Ben has plenty of room. When everyone had finished lunch, we discussed going to Port Grimaud and/or the beach, as the weather was overcast and showery. We decided to go to the beach first and as Ben and Emma were to join us we chose Tahiti Beach (family beach). It cost £2.00 to park for the hour (probably FF20 – so also probably less than £2.00) we were there. The waves were up and three of us spent most time in the water as it was warm, even in the rain.

We decided not to return on the main road, as it had been horrendously busy on the way in. We therefore came back the long way around. I got lost.  The road past the vineyard is closed so it was difficult. Anyway, we made it in the end. After tea, Sue and I went in to Port Grimaud. This was enjoyable as it was very pleasant, not as hot as it had been the last time we came (This was not our first holiday in Saint Tropez). It does come dark quickly down here to go from (SLR) filmable to unfilmable.

1 – Now, 26 years later, everything around here is much changed.

2 – I cannot find a non-video link to the original game we played back then

3 – ah, the luxuries of A/C. Not available to us then.

4 – I’d forgotten the security man. The camp site we stayed in had a huge gate which closed at a certain time to keep the ‘estate’ quiet.

5 – This belonged to my work colleague and friend Stephen Hamer.

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