The Final Road Home – Bohemia #8

Day 7

After breakfast on Sunday, we were on our way.

Stephen and I had to fight over who would drive first but I pulled rank and said it was my car, so he could get lost. I hadn’t driven in Berlin yet and wanted to do so.  The weather was still fine and the drive out was ok.  We only had one hold-up, but saw a second incident.

It wasn’t clear what the original incident had been but one silly old duffer had run his car into something in front of us (we think that it was the central reservation, as no other car had stopped).  Well, he just got out of his car and walked away (in search of a telephone I expect) and left the car there, in the fast lane – with his wife still sitting in it! Silly old sod.  A little later on we saw a rescue helicopter in a field with all the services around it.  Something must have happened earlier and was in the process of clearing up as we saw them lifting a stretcher into the chopper.

The first sign we saw that there had once been a split in the country was when we passed an old customs post which had once blocked the autobahn.  I’m surprised that they hadn’t demolished it.

I had phoned France before we left the hotel in Berlin and had booked a room in the same Formula 1 we had stayed in on our first night. At least I think I had.  The lady on the phone spoke no English and my French is poor to say the least.  However, we struggled through.  I wasn’t sure whether I had agreed to pay by Visa, if we didn’t turn up on time (which was the idea) or whether she just held the room until 19:00pm, which was company policy.  However, when we got there after 20:00pm, we had a room and she had me on her list. We could have been there earlier, but for the French.

We had filled up in Germany, when we had only 1 – 2 gallons left. We could possibly have made the next petrol station but it wasn’t worth the risk.  I estimated that we might JUST have enough to get us to the Shuttle (and therefore fill up in England, where petrol is cheaper).  However, we were about 10 miles short of the hotel and maybe 30 miles short of the tunnel when I thought that perhaps we had only 1 – 2 gallons left in the tank again. We had done around 400 miles by this time too, so we thought it best that we fill up.  We were a shade inside Boring Belgium and we had no cash, so I had to use my Visa and would therefore need to put at least half a tank in, to make it worthwhile.  But that in itself wasn’t a problem. The problem was that we had to come off the motorway and drive into the nearest town.  The French were just leaving this town in their millions, having just spent Sunday on the beach, in the hot sun.  It took us almost two hours to get to the hotel, just ten miles away.  Mind, that also include half an hour trying to find the hotel again.  When we did find it, we realised that it was next to a massive hypermarket, something we had missed when we visited last week.

We ate that night in the barbecue place next door. A basic choice of food, all chargrilled, with chips and salad – the usual French fayre. It wasn’t too bad but we were spanked again for price.  I actually complained in French again, that the bill included too many beers and the waiter understood, agreed and altered the bill.  I’m getting good.

Day 8

In the morning, we took a look around the Carrefour Hypermarket and stocked up on beer and wine. I couldn’t find my favourite coffee, so had to do without.  We then called at the Cité de Europe, the new Meadowhall type of place by the side of the Shuttle terminal.  Here we found a small looking, but in fact quite large Tesco dedicated to beers, wines and spirits, nothing else. The prices were good too.  It’s the only place in France that offers a full range of New World wines.  We were able to buy Nottage Hill and Rosemount Aussie wines at about 25% less than at home in the UK.  Lovely.

We then set off up the road toward England. We arrived at the Shuttle terminal and were told that the next train was boarding “now” and that we could get on it if we wished.  We asked what time the next one would be and were told “half an hour” – so we selected that one as it gave us just enough time to go around the duty-free shop.  So, we did this, then drove to the loading area.  We were now told that there would be a delay of 20 minutes and that they would in fact begin loading at 13:30pm.

This was actually even better. It was almost 13:00 and we now had time to eat our lunch, purchased in the hypermarket, in the sunshine. So we set out the car’s picnic rug, disembowelled the car of all food (in bags, and cool boxes), knives and forks, cruet and drinks.  We were sat there having a merry old time. The Spanish women sat on the bench next to us fair laughed when I went back for the second loaf of now droopy, baguette. The Germans behind us watched disdainfully, but we were ‘alright Jack’, the sun was out, the food was nice and we were going nowhere for half an hour.  We then heard the announcement to say that boarding would commence immediately and knowing better (it was only 13:15pm), we carried on eating.  Then the traffic began to move.

Well, you’ve never seen a car re-packed so quickly!

Up came the rug, with all its contents, to be dumped unceremoniously in the boot and everything else dumped in the back seat with Ben.  I was still trying to finish my coke and get into the car as we drove off.  I heard something drop even then, but couldn’t see what it was.  As we drove towards the ramps, I noticed that the eye-piece for the video camera was missing and now knew exactly what had dropped under the car. I had Stephen reverse the car up the ramps and back the way we had come – to where we had stopped for lunch.  A bit of arm waving, pointing and all known languages persuaded the troops to let me back into the waiting area where I found, the now much run-over, eye-piece. It cost me £25 to replace.

We had a little snackette on the only piece of grass available at Watford Gap service station and managed to arrive back in Mirfield about 18:00pm.  Ben and I washed the car on our way back to Linthwaite and that was that.

Our adventure was over. Thank you for staying with us.

The Road to Berlin – Bohemia #6

We got up early and set off for Berlin.  Breakfasted and washed, we were off by 09:00am and called first at a small supermarket to buy food and drink for the day.

Day 5

It took us some time to get out of Prague and onto the open road north to Germany, but we made it.  The countryside seems to be a little cluttered around here (with pylons, factories etc.) but I suppose that that is the result of years of neglect.  The Czechs seem to be a hardworking people, so there’s hope for the future.  We didn’t see many beggars here.

What we did see on our journey north, particularly as we neared Germany and drove up into the mountains were lines of ‘ladies’1 plying their trade at the side of the road.  Young and old alike, there were many groups of them waving at passing cars, trying to make them stop. I was almost tempted to stop and ask ‘how much?’ (purely for research reasons I must add), but they might never have let the car go again.  They were certainly very colourful.

We also passed a very large brick-built structure which we thought at first must have been a military barracks, but as it was disused and as it seemed to go on and on, we began to wonder.  Only when we got to the town centre and saw the tour buses and the enormous ‘Jewish Memorial’ did we realise that it was a concentration camp2.  The town was Terezin.

We drove up to the border at the mountaintop and had no rouble getting through.  We bought lots of cheap vodka and a Magnum each before driving off into the beautiful ‘East’ German countryside.

I mentioned Magnum just now.  Early in our tour, this became our official rate of exchange. When we could not tell how much things were (in Holland for example), we gauged it on the price of a Magnum.  Stephen insisted that they were only 99p for three at the Mirfield Co-op, but that most vendors charged that amount for just one. So, the rate of exchange was 1 x Magnum = £1.00.  Therefore, whatever the cost of a Magnum (or equivalent) abroad was directly convertible into English. Simple, see?  The rates of this exchange from town to town and country to country varied enormously (as you can imagine), so thank goodness for international exchange rates, which we now believe are more reliable. (lol).

Having filled up in Germany, something we had sought to avoid as the fuel is much dearer, we set off towards Dresden.  We had not been able to fill-up in Czech as the petrol station did not take visa and we didn’t have enough Zlotaks left. Dresden looks a beautiful city but the video camera had discharged itself and we were not able to take any shots as we passed.  We definitely intended to make Berlin that day so we didn’t stop, preferring to get to Meissen, just up the road instead.  We stopped at this old and famous (for porcelain) town for a late lunch. Because it was so hot, none of us wanted more than a cake from the shop and a cold drink. At the top of the town is a tower and a church. To get to these, you have to climb 200 steps (I don’t know who counted).  The heat was almost unbearable by now and we were completely shagged when we got to the top. However, from up here, we could see for miles around. The red roofs of the town were all below us and it obvious that cheap loans are now available via ‘soli’3, in this ex-East German town for upkeep and repairs. They are obviously hoping to cash in on the tourist market and so they should, as the town is a pleasant place to visit.  We did witness some ugliness though. As we walked back towards the car we passed along a street with Turkish or similarly owned businesses where the windows had been broken. This sort of thing is rife in Germany, where the Germans are afraid that cheaper Turks will take their jobs.

Our drive continued and we reached the autobahn.  It must have been one of Hitler’s first and hadn’t been maintained since.  In places the concrete carriageway was so uneven it was positively dangerous.  In parts, one lane was 2”-3” higher than the next – tyre ripping stuff. It was good to finally reach Berlin.  Although, for many miles you wouldn’t know that you were in one of the greatest capital cities of the world.  We’d bought a map on the outskirts and headed towards Templehof Airport, which was roughly in the direction we wanted to go.  Our aim was to find a hotel somewhere out of the centre but near a Metro station.  We couldn’t have done this however, until we found out where we were on the map.  This led to a frustrating hour trying to find out where that was exactly.  We drove along a promising road signposted >>Centrum>> which was cobbled for about 12 miles.  We saw no hotels.

We eventually found ourselves on the map and tried several promising looking areas but the whole time (perhaps another hour), we found only two. Hotels.  One was £100 per night and the other looked a little shady.  We then shot out of a road4 and found ourselves right next to the Brandenburger Tor and on Under Den Linden. This was fascinating, especially after the forty odd years that Berlin was split as it once was5.

Picture of Brelin wall with Brandenberg gate behind. People are stoo on the wall.
We popped out of the street at the opposite side of what we see here.

What we hadn’t realised until now, was the we were looking for hotels in what had been East Berlin, where of course, commerce had been subdued for the forty years following the war and had little need for the type of hotel we were looking for. By now it was late and we were tired and fed-up. I tried to phone a hotel out of town, but my money wouldn’t stay in the and I got nowhere.

We eventually found a hotel right opposite the Berlin Opera House, The Hotel An Der Opera, and although it was more expensive that we’d hoped, it was the only hotel we had seen – so we took it. On reflection, the price wasn’t that bad, bearing in mind what we had paid in Czech. The estimated conversion of the bill from deutschmarks was £204.10 for two nights (I paid by Visa and didn’t note the exact amount later).  That’s three people B & B.  Add the Czech bill of approximately £61.65 and divide by five night (although one was really just a morning lol) and it’s down to around £17.70 per person per night, which is roughly the cost of a room in France. So, seven nights at a rough conversion rate (not Magnum rate) cost us about £14.50 each per night, which isn’t that bad at all.  The meals however, did cost a good bit more.

1 – The term used at that time was ‘mucky women’ lol.

2 – Looking at Google maps, it seems that the road to Germany had been diverted since our visit. We certainly drove around and through the town. It was eerie.

3 – Following the fall of the Berlin Wall the German government introduced a “solidarity surcharge,”, which is, even now apparently, still imposed. https://www.dw.com/en/taxpayers-demand-end-to-soli-tax-to-boost-eastern-german-economy/a-41315805

4 – That must have been Wilhelmstrasse.

5 – For all of our lives, none of us three had ever known anything other than a divided Berlin. To be so close to this poignant reminder of the wall that figuratively divided Europe, which was there until finally demolished just a few years before our arrival, was thought provoking.

Picture Credit:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berlin_Wall#/media/File:West_and_East_Germans_at_the_Brandenburg_Gate_in_1989.jpg

Czech with Mates – Bohemia #1

Day 1

We set off from Mirfield in indifferent weather, about 15:30pm on Monday 17th July.  Despite taking the scenic route through Flockton, we made good time towards the M25, despite being held up by a large load on the M1.  We were then held up on the M25 by slow-moving commuter traffic, about 19:30pm. This mean that our arrival in Folkestone was a little delayed but we were still very much on time to catch the 23:00pm1 Shuttle. As it happens, we were able to board one earlier at 22:00pm and had a smooth run through to France.  Even so, by this time, we were knackered and decided to get booked into a Formula 1 for the night.  The one in Calais was booked up, the next one, in Dunkirk took some finding and when we got there, that too was booked up. However, we were advised that there were spaces in the second Dunkirk hotel, in Saint Pol sur Mer, just up the road. We drove around the deserted streets for almost an hour trying to find this bugger and when we did, found it to be beside one of the major routes north to Belgium – not the one we had taken2.

Day 2 – part a

After the night here in Dunkirk, we set off for the Czech Republic.

We drove up through the rest of France and then through boring Belgium, through the small finger of Holland that juts between Germany and Belgium, and then into Germany.  Lunch was by a service station in the finger of Holland.  Lunch didn’t include a boiled egg as they had been overcooked by Stephen. He just laughed.  We passed under the giant Dortmund-Essen conurbation, and passing Cologne Cathedral on our left. We carried on down past Frankfurt and underneath the planes that were constantly landing there (we got some good shots of undercarriage through the sun roof).  We drove through Nuremberg and on towards the border at Weiden. The countryside here is beautiful and despite the rain, we have had excellent views since Nuremberg.  Wooded mountains faced us as we drove up and in the direction of Czech and the rain was drying up.  We were looking forward to getting into Czech itself and finding a small hotel on the road, or at worst in Pilsen, and having an evening meal. By now it was about 20:00pm.

That didn’t happen.  See next post (Day 2 – part b)

1 – Given that ‘Day 1’ included a trip through the channel tunnel, which only opened to the public in December 1994, I guess that ‘our’ trip may well have been 1995. It certainly wasn’t later than this. I do remember having been through the tunnel before ‘our’ trip.

2 – This entire journey turned out to be an example of what we miss when we have SatNavs – which were unthought of back in 1995!

Saint Tropez – Final days #8

Tuesday 20th July

We waited in for John Denton to arrive, from Quarry Garage.  I waited outside the camp site for two and a half hours, so I could let him in.  He arrived1 at 12:30pm.  He then checked the car over, drilling holes here and there as he went and then handed us a big handful of cable-ties.  These could now be used to secure the boot and the bonnet whilst travelling2.  Then we all had lunch.  John had brought his four-year-old son Lewis along with him.  Sue had found a turtle whilst I was away this morning and caught it on film.

By the time we reached the beach today it was very windy again, but we were able to set the brolly up as an igloo, so it had less chance of blowing away.  Despite the wind, the sea was very calm, although the surface was cold, with the wind.  It was easy to swim in today, much easier than any other day.  The wind eventually drove us home (via Ramatuelle, after yesterday’s traffic).  After tea we went for a drive and because of the traffic elsewhere, we tried Port Cogolin. Crap!

Wednesday 21st July

We had a straight forward sort of day today, arriving at the beach before 10:00am and leaving when it clouded over around 15:30pm. We then drove up to Ramatuelle for afternoon tea (well you know). We called at Le Cave Minute after this but didn’t get shown around or offered a taste.  We stopped then at Cave Bourrian and bought a red wine which turned out to be NOT very nice.  After tea, Ben did some videoing and we drove to Cavalaire, but couldn’t find anywhere to park.  http://vignoblesderamatuelle.com/.

Thursday 22nd July

We went to the Casino at 08:30am, hopefully for the last time this holiday.  We went for all of the things we need for the journey home tomorrow.  Filled up, checked oil and topped up and then we had breakfast in the café there before driving to the beach via Gassin and Ramatuelle.

Friday 23rd July – Departure

We were up at 07:00am and ready to leave by 08:45am. By 11:35am we were at Montelimar. We set off again at 12:25pm and stopped at a service station south of Mâcon but filled up at a service station just south of Beaune (15:50pm). Stopped again north of Dijon to phone Troyes.  We arrived in Troyes around 18:10pm but took another 30 minutes to find the Formula 1 hotel, which turned out to be miles and miles out of town.

So, we had driven all day.  08:45am to 18:30pm almost 10 hours – 512 miles.

A lot of time was taken up trying to find this place, but we’re here now. Right next door is a place called Fasthotel and they only charge 150ff.  Ours cost 130ff as it is a special offer, nationwide. The room is adequate. It had a clock, a telly and a sink (plus one double bed and a single bunk)3.  We went to the Fasthotel for dinner – they have two horseshoe shaped bars, which turn into dining tables at the suggestion of customers (??).  Two basic menus are offered. The service was good, quick and cheerful and the food was so-so – adequate at the price.

Saturday 24th July

I woke early and couldn’t get back to sleep, so I went for a walk.  We intend to go down for breakfast at 08:00am.  We were on our way by 08:40am.

We’re driving up the A26 now, from Troyes towards Chalon sur Marne4 and we’ve reached Sommesous (Sue must have been driving).  The fields at either side of the road are no longer the colourful patchwork of wheat, sunflowers, sweetcorn and beet but now JUST wheat (or Barley) as far as the eye can see, just like I imagine the prairies to look like.  Also, here and there, there are enormous silos, presumably for storing all this grain, which is being harvested as we pass.  Some fields have already been cut, but others are still ripening in the sun. Perhaps the grasses are barley, because as we pass the Epernay turn off, there’s a strong smell of malting.  We arrived in Calais at 12:40pm. The ferry was at 15:45pm

So, before boarding, we went to the Continent Hypermarket and bought 5 cases of beer and four bottles of wine5.  We also had a really crap lunch at the Flunch bar, re-packed the boot and drove back to the ship.  On board, I bought 1ltr Asbach and 1ltr Gin and a pack of lighters.

And, that’s it – I have no news of the journey through the UK or what happened upon our return with the car.  I do  know that Quarry Garage were brilliant and that they loaned us a car while they sorted the repairs and dealt with the insurance company.

Thank you for reading.

1 – He didn’t have to come at all, it was really kind of him to pop along and help us make the car safe. He’d been in England, at the garage when I called last week (after the crash), to seek advice on how to make the car safe to drive home. He was coming down to Stay with family on holiday in Saint Raphaël anyway and simply offered to pop along and help.

2 – It just meant that we had to take everything out of the boot each night on our way back, and leave the parcel shelf off, so it could be seen as empty.

3 – I don’t know what Formula 1s are like these days but back in the day they were VERY basic. The toilets and showers were communal and down the hallway. Mostly, I seem to remember that they were also automatic. Since those days (when we were financially disadvantaged), we have progressed up through Premiere Classe hotels and on to Campanile hotels, which offer more comfort and more than adequate dining. We’ve also stayed in traditional French hotels over the years but it seems the we did not on this holiday.

4 – Now Chalons en Champagne – ‘Formerly called Châlons-sur-Marne, the city was officially renamed in 1998.’

5 – Such things were very much cheaper in France at that time.

Monte Carlo and Crash #3

Friday 9th July

We set off for Monte Carlo about 08:45am – it took us two hours. Well, today was a day for the story books. (This post is all about ONE day). Nevertheless, I’ll start at the beginning. The journey to Monaco took two hours, the roads were clear but it had taken us an hour to reach the Autoroute at Frejus. After another delay, we found our way to the palace gardens car park and eventually to the small shopping area that surrounds the palace. Here, we bought respective parents’ scarves for presents, before stopping for a drink and some lunch at the same café we stopped at last year.  This is on the corner of the palace courtyard and the meal was fine.  I had a salami salad sandwich and a beer, Sue had a croque monsieur and a beer. I then had a coffee and Sue had another beer. This totalled less than 100 francs1, not too bad for where we were. I wondered why everyone was queuing by the palace gates and only realised why when bang on 12:00pm there was a ceremonial changing of the guard. However, as we hadn’t yet paid and Sue had popped to the loo, I couldn’t leave the table to film it.2 We did manage to catch the tail end of the ceremony though.  Hey ho. We then drove on to Eze, where we visited (the Fragonard) Perfumery and bought ‘Beautiful’ for Dorothy and some ‘Cacharel’ for me.  We then drove on to Cannes. The road was clear, as I’d found the non-town centre road and zipped along it to the autoroute exit and then zipped along between Nice and Cannes. Cannes is a very difficult town to understand from what the map displays; the bit we wanted to see, the bit we see on T.V. is in fact La Croisette on our map. Anyway, we spent an hour or so looking around the shops and finished by having ice creams. I had one with cherry ice, kiwi ice (nasty) and banana ice with cream and fruit2.  Sue had her usual Colonel with Perrier and I had tea. 139 francs – whoops.  We then drove home. This took some time. We went via the autoroute and Le Muy but as we drove towards St. Maxime (almost there in fact), we were shunted from behind. We were in front of a five-car pile-up. Nothing could be done, the traffic was crawling along towards the roundabout, about ¼ mile away. No one was stationary, just crawling. However, I heard the bump as car #4 (we were car #1) ran into the back of car #3 with some velocity. Car #3 crunched into car #2 and car #2 ran into us – still with some force.  As I heard the bump, I watched all this in my rear-view mirror and stood hard on my brakes to take as much momentum out of the smash as possible. I was nevertheless, pushed into the car in front of me (let’s call that car #1+).  However, damage to that big old Merc (with tow bar) was so negligible that the driver just shrugged his shoulders and drove off. However, we had had a proper tup.  The gendarmes and pompiers were great and the girl who caused the smash (car #4) was very upset, but mainly, no one was hurt. We were allowed to drive on as ours was the only car not to have a damaged radiator. We made it back to the camp site and then called England for help/advice. We had a lousy meal at Fat Jaques before sitting down to write this. (The story continues in the next blog post). 1 – Around £11.00 https://www.historicalstatistics.org/Currencyconverter.html 2 – 26 years on it sounds disgusting, I’d never eat those flavours now and certainly not that much.
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